In order to make a door with your own hands, or order it in a workshop, it is extremely important to correctly "take measurements". An inaccurate measurement of the doorway of the entrance door, at best, will lead to the formation of huge gaps, which will need to be closed up and insulated. In a bad case, you will need to think about how to expand the doorway, which will bring even more trouble.
From time to time, it is not uncommon to build a partition or a wall into which a door of a given size will be inserted. But sometimes it is necessary to solve more important tasks - for example, the construction of an opening where it was not under any circumstances.
I really suspect that your canvas went screw.
Take the level of 1.5-1.8 meters long. Measure the vertical at the racks of the box.
If both racks are installed in the same plane, the blade goes with the propeller. Then you can buy / order one canvas (it depends on how much your existing canvas sizes are standard - standard canvas sizes: height 2 m, width 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 m.).
If you expose the box, as recommended here, the gap at the door will go away, but the box will not be in the plane with the wall. I don’t think that it would be better to look if the jamb protrudes from the wall plane by 2 centimeters.
write a sledgehammer on a box opposite the slit, only gently, the skew will align.
Either a box or a planer to help you and to shove the door.
house slipped one way?
You have to level the whole box so that everything looks exactly in relation to the wall
If it is a question of leveling the door leaf, then the blade that has dried out with the propeller, which by sight is more than your age, cannot be leveled. The costs of fitting the door to this curved door, the time and money spent will not be comparable in comparison with buying a new budget door, I am silent about the aesthetic appearance ...
I agree 100% about the new door with the box, and the owner’s business is the cost. Moreover, the author himself does not know - the door is crooked, or the box, or maybe the top loop has moved away. He has one way out - a new door and hire experienced people to install.
Look at the jamb - the upper right corner. If it comes out, then tear off the cashing from the outside, remove everything that the right pillar and the upper part of the box hold on, push the top edge of the box inward until the gap between the door and the box is removed. Then you fix it (for example, hammer a block of a suitable size between the wall and the box) and fill it with mounting foam. No need to shave, crush, wet, etc. etc.
Py.Sy. before foaming, lay a few pieces of corrugated cardboard between the door and the box - this would then open the door and close. That's all. If you want to verify the correctness of this action - YouTube will help you. Ask like: how to install a door frame
The reasons for the skew door
If the door is wooden, then the cause of the skew is most likely due to moisture. Water, falling into the thickness of the door, made it swell, and as a result the door began to “cling” to the door frame.
A heavy wooden door may be skewed due to improper hinges for it. Remember that solid wooden doors (which you could hardly tear off from the floor until you hung them in the doorway) should be hung on three, not two hinges.
But metal doors are not subject to deformation under the influence of water. But they can also be skewed just as well if the loops were incorrectly selected for their weight. Another reason that a skew of a metal door can occur is its incorrect initial installation.
In addition, both wooden doors and metal doors may be skewed due to a violation of the geometry of the doorway. This often occurs in new homes, in which shrinkage of structures continues.
Skewed door hinges
If the cause of the skew, in your opinion, was the wrong number of door hinges (or using hinges of softer material than was necessary), you can go in two ways:
- firstly, just replace the loops with more powerful ones,
- secondly, add a third (and if necessary, a fourth) loop.
Door hinges without frame
Now in construction stores you can find door hinges that do not require insertion into either the door leaf or the box. Therefore, they can be put in place without even removing the door leaf from the hinges (just remember to first correct the position of the door before screwing new hinges to it).
Perhaps a small washer located in the middle of the door hinge will also help solve the problem. It will lift the entire door leaf by 1-2 millimeters (depending on its thickness) and the problem will be solved.
Changing the geometry of the doorway
Door Frame Replacement
In this case, the probability that the door itself will cease to cling to the bottom or top of the door frame still exists. However, during this time, the door leaf can be severely damaged.
Before you make the final decision - to outweigh the door, grind it (if it comes to a wooden door) or leave everything until you touch it - pay attention to the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. If they become very visible, it is better to outweigh the door. Do not forget to track whether the right angle between the horizontal and vertical elements of the door frame is preserved. If the skew became strong, you will have to change the door frame. You can also try simply rearranging the old doorframe if you can remove it carefully.
Re-hanging the door
If a wooden door has absorbed water and swollen, then you should not hope that when it dries, it will return to its previous shape. Most often, after exposure to water, the warping process begins, and the door will still not close perfectly. In this situation, you can also choose one of three solutions:
- while leaving everything as it is in the hope that the door will nevertheless “change its mind”,
- replace the door leaf,
- replace the door frame.
However, first of all, you need to eliminate the reason why the water got so close to your door. If we are talking about the doors inside the apartment or house, then the reason usually lies in poorly functioning ventilation. Most often, the doors of the bathrooms suffer from moisture, so be sure to check if a piece of paper is attracted to the ventilation grille located there with one open window in the apartment. If there is no draft, then the ventilation issue will have to be dealt with closely.
Most often, poor ventilation occurs in houses and apartments in which new plastic windows were installed. The absence of cracks that old wooden windows were famous for led to the fact that air from the street enters the apartment only with the window open. And since the air vents rarely open in winter, the ventilation in the kitchen (if there is no electric extractor hood) and in the bathrooms stops working. To solve this problem, it is recommended to install exhaust valves on all windows (or just always keep one window open ajar).
Visor above the front door
If the entrance wooden door has suffered from the effects of water, then you will have to make a visor above it (and if there is one, then expand it so that during the rain drops do not fall on the door leaf). It is also recommended to cover the wooden door in several layers with protective compounds for wood (from all sides, each time waiting for their complete absorption).
On request: “Preparation of video doorways”, it is always possible to find a suitable video where masters share their experiences. For our part, we will try to forge you theoretically, relying on building rules and technologies - since the opening must not only be correctly calculated, but also how to align it.
- The most difficult thing, of course, at a time when the construction of the house is carried out, as expected, according to the project. In the documentation there is a scheme for filling doorways, an approximate version of which you see below. It indicates the sizes and types of doors, of course the gaps in the walls where they will be inserted.
- In fact, when erecting walls, masons immediately make such openings as are specifically necessary - the main thing is that they have the correct information on the door markings, which will be installed in the bearing and self-supporting walls. But as for the partitions, for the internal layout much more often now they are inviting not masons, but drywall experts.
The device of the doorway in the GVL partition (see How to make a doorway from drywall) - the procedure is not so complicated, and it is possible to perform it yourself. But, of course, it is necessary to get to the work with understanding, and try not to mess up anything about the size of the opening.
Having looked at the video in this article, you will be able to fully cope with the task. Then we offer you a little instruction on this topic.
Opening in the frame partition
The thickness of the door frame made of wood forms an average of 5 cm - it is this distance, coupled with the size of the canvas, that forms the full size of the door. The entire instruction on measuring the doorway for installing the door comes down to adding a mounting gap along its perimeter, which should be between 3-6 cm.
It is later closed with mounting foam. Deviations of a few millimeters are not critical, but it is better if they are in a huge direction.
Note! Maybe not everyone knows that in the door marking, in decimeters, the canvas size is encrypted taking into account the thickness of the box. If it is required, say, to put a door of the DG 21 * 9 brand, the minimum doorway under such a door should be 2,160 m in height and 0,980 m in width. This principle applies not only to doors installed in partitions, but also by and large to all doors.
- Since the gypsum plasterboard partition is a frame structure, the opening in it is formed at the time of installation of the supporting elements. For the manufacture of wooden blocks can be used, but more often however, for this purpose they use an aluminum profile: guide, and rack-mount. Its dimensions are selected depending on the dimensions of the partition and the weight of the installed door, for example: PN75 / 40 and PS75 / 50.
- First, on the floor, ceiling and walls, the perimeter of the future partition is drawn, along which, with the back to the base surface, a guide profile is mounted. Its shelves form a groove into which vertical posts and jumpers will be inserted. Before mounting the lower guide, it is necessary to mark the position of the opening on the chipping line, since in this place, the profile is not mounted.
- Of the vertical load-bearing elements, the first are those that form the doorway. The distance between them, as already mentioned, should be 8-10 cm greater than the width of the door with the box. After that, a cross-beam is mounted between these two posts, which will limit the height of the opening.
- Cut it out of the profile of the PN, and mount it so that the shelves are deployed towards the ceiling. Depending on the installation method of the gypsum wall near the door, one or two small intermediate racks will be inserted into it, giving rigidity to the opening. For the same purpose, wooden blocks of the appropriate section are inserted into the groove of the side pillars, to which the box will be attached later (see How to assemble a door frame without troubles).
- How approximately the frame of the partition with the doorway looks like is clearly visible in the last photo. How to cut the profile correctly, to carry out by way of fastening the fastening, what distance should be between the frame elements, and other necessary information, look in the articles intended to be devoted to this topic, of course by request: “Preparing the video doorway”.
We talk about this only in general, since our story is devoted to the process of leveling the opening. Despite the fact that it is in drywall partitions and there is nothing to smooth out. In most cases, the thickness of the partition is made in accordance with the thickness of the door frame.
If no mistakes were made during installation, all that remains is to putty the surface of the walls adjacent to the box, finish them, and close the joints with platbands.
A completely different matter is the repair of doorways in the bathroom, or near the front door, which will be addressed later. There are no drywall partitions in these places, but rather thick supporting walls.
The entrance doorway is often filled either with one box with two canvases, or with two bindings, since one door, for example, is possibly iron and the second wooden.
The space between them is called a plug. If you take into account that the thickness of the bearing wall is probably quite impressive - say, in two bricks (51 cm), then it is natural that, in addition, double binding does not completely fill the opening. More often, outside the door is flush with the wall, and the slopes are obtained.
From time to time they are sewn up with wood or MDF, but much more often they are plastered with cement plaster. In any case, at the end of the replacement of the door, or during the overhaul of the walls, at the time when the plaster has to be knocked down to the base, the geometry of the slopes is not uncommon, significantly broken, and you have to think about how to align the doorway.
Slope Leveling Methods
So we come to the most difficult stage of wall repair. By the way, invited masters take separate money for plastering the slopes, and the price, I must say, is rather high - about 250-300 rubles per linear meter.
So, the slope of one door measuring 2.1 * 0.9m, will cost at least 1300 rubles. Despite the fact that such work may not take too much time - it all depends on the initial state of the opening.
- Try to do it yourself, especially since it is possible to use a variety of improvised materials for work. The alignment of the side walls of the opening without a door is carried out according to the same principle as the plastering of rectangular columns. On the sides of the slope, checking the level, two long aluminum rules are fixed on both sides, sliding them out of the surface plane to the thickness of the plaster.
- The rules, in this case, are beacons, but in principle, it is possible to do without them. The role of the rules is just as well done by simple profiles for drywall, which are mounted on self-tapping screws or dowels, with backs to the side surface of the opening. Just like the rules, they must be pushed forward by the thickness of the screed.
- If there is a door in the opening, then the lighthouses are mounted only on one side. In the first case, excess solution is removed with a small rule, a small one, or a wide spatula. If there is a door in the opening, you need to make such a template from improvised materials, which is shown in the picture above.
- It can be made of a piece of plywood, hardboard, drywall or, in addition, thick cardboard. The main thing is to make a recess on the template that exactly fits the protrusion of the door frame. This will allow you to make a clear line of the stucco layer around the perimeter of the door. At the end of how the solution has set, but has not yet hardened, the beacons are carefully removed and form an angle, cutting off all unnecessary with a spatula.
- At the time when the smoothing screed, which is carried out by the base mixture with the uncouth dispersion of components, dries, a perforated corner plaster is mounted on it. And after that they putty. If there is no huge damage on the slopes, then a thick layer of plaster to apply is not useful.
- In this case, it is possible to do without lighthouse profiles, and immediately mount a corner. By the way, when plastering walls and slopes with gypsum mixtures, it is possible to simplify the leveling process, using the same drywall. If you cut narrow long strips, and stick them on the putty along the racks of the box, it will be a perfectly even junction.
- Aligned in level, these stripes will serve as beacons for applying a smoothing layer. You do not need to remove them, because at the end of how the starting layer dries, the strips of drywall will be hidden under the putty. The upper slope, also, by the way, is more ergonomic to align with drywall.
Plaster mixes, especially at a time when you have to impose a thick layer, do not hold well on horizontal surfaces. We have to mount the grid, apply a couple of layers, and any time wait until they dry.
A wall drywall itself has a thickness of at least 12 mm, plus a thick layer of glue, which allows you to even the slope in one go.
Adjustment of interior doors is absolutely always required, regardless of whether there are already problems or while the structure is functioning without failures. If you maintain the normal condition of the door and its elements, you can significantly extend the service life. Если момент был упущен и приходится проводить экстренную целевую регулировку межкомнатных дверей своими руками, тогда важно знать какие проблемы возникают чаще всего и где искать их причину, пути устранения и варианты предотвращения повторных ситуаций в дальнейшем.
Основными неполадками можно считать следующие:
- Дверь плохо закрывается. If areas of mashing on the floor are noticeable, you need to repair the door hinges and adjust the position of the blade. If there is contact with the box, set the position relative to the frame. When there are problems with fixing the closed position of the structure, you need to pay attention to the lock.
- The door sagged. Most often this results in sagging of the canvas under its own weight, up to the curvature of the frame.
- Creak when moving. Most likely, the grease just dried in the hinges and you need to update it. Also, the cause may be a skew in the door frame.
- The door does not open. A box may also be involved here, especially if there has been a sharp increase in humidity. Another option is breaking the lock. Loops in this case rarely break.
Most often, the reason lies precisely in the loops. It is very simple to fix most of these problems with your own hands.
The most common malfunction of a door is its sagging.
Since a specific situation can be associated with several factors, you should individually consider all the options and figure out how to do your own repair of various parts of the door unit.
The most difficult situation is the door adjustment associated with the deformation of the box. In this case, the design lends itself to the greatest destruction and sometimes it is impossible to fix the problem with your own hands without completely reworking the box. If the situation is ignored, the canvas is shifted in relation to the diagonal, begins to overwrite, and may even tear up racks from the wall.
How to adjust the interior door in case of a skewed frame? First of all, you need to remove the canvas from the hinges. Next, it is necessary to take measurements and identify in which exact place the displacement occurred. Be sure to check the diagonal, so finding the problem area where the door structure sagged will be much easier.
To further adjust the door, you need to remove all decorative elements and screw additional bolts into the structure to fix the correct position. After this, you need to remove the old mounting foam and, having set the spacers, re-foam the joints on the new one.
Adjusting the door frame is considered the most difficult malfunction associated with its deformation.
Most of the problems are related to the adjustment of door hinges. Here we can distinguish several situations:
- Loops too deep. Adjustment of interior doors with such a problem is carried out in two ways. If the difference with the norm is insignificant, you need to loosen the self-tapping screws that fix the hardware plates. With a recess of more than 0.5 mm, a substrate, for example, of cardboard, will help to raise the hinges.
- The loops protrude above the bottom or the canvas. In this case, the canvas will not fit snugly against the box. In order to correct the situation, you just need to remove an additional layer of material from the problem area. This is conveniently done with a miniature grinding attachment.
- Creak. The problem may be due to dirt getting into the hinge. In this case, it is necessary to clean the parts and grease them with oil or silicone. If at the same time the door is slightly sagging, you need to adjust the hinges. Sometimes the problem lies in the rotary mechanism itself, in which case door hinges repair or a complete replacement of the part will be required.
- The door sagged. If the door has slipped, the reason may be that the hinges loosened. In order to raise the sagging door, it is necessary to tighten the screws tighter. If this is not the case, you can put a rubber gasket under the canopy. In some models, you need to knock out the axis. In plastic blocks, the adjustment is made by tightening the hinges with a hex wrench.
When the door is sagging, the best option is to tighten the screws on the hinges
Handles and locks
The last category of door adjustment methods relates to locking hardware. By adjusting the position of the handle, you can solve problems with closing the door. Consider what needs to be done for this.
If the canvas does not fix in the opening when closing, check whether the position of the tongue in the lock coincides with the hole in the counter plate. If not, the plate needs to be shifted to the desired level. The second option is to adjust the position of the crossbar.
To troubleshoot problems with locking hardware, you need to identify the exact problem.
How to adjust the door lock if it, on the contrary, sticks? If the reason is not that the door slid under its own weight, then you need to do the following: first, look at the how the tongue of the tongue moves, it may be sufficient just to lift it with a screwdriver. If the problem persists, disassemble the handle and check the condition of the internal mechanism. Its parts may shift or break, in which case replacement is required. If the handle is tightly turned, you may need a banal lubrication of the mechanism.
So that the doors do not break, you need to do a routine inspection of the structure and correct the damage to their direct manifestation.
With proper care of the door structure, you should not have such problems. If damage cannot be avoided, now you know how to fix it yourself.
Openings where they were not
From time to time, during major repairs or redevelopment of apartments or houses, the owner makes a decision on the transformation of the size of the opening, or even on its transfer. If the walls are load-bearing, such actions are preceded by obtaining a permit, if it is just a partition, then the housing working group is informed of the work performed. But at the moment, not about that.
Openings are made by various methods, the choice of which depends on the structural material of the wall. Accordingly, slopes are formed in different ways. In brick, foam concrete and asbestos-cement partitions, openings are cut. These materials are quite soft, on the basis of this huge costs for cutting the opening is not necessary.
Naturally, this is done by preliminary marking, at the end of which, alignment and finishing are performed. If an opening is necessary, it is easier to do this on only one side. Despite the fact that the layout does not always allow you to make it easier, and you have to cram an opening on both sides.
Cutting and reinforcing
Diamond cutting of openings made using specialized wall-cutting equipment, although more costly, can solve the problem with a wall of any thickness and strength.
- Along with this, there is no dust, since a similar technique is equipped with a dust collecting device. Dirt, of course, is not uncommon, but from the fact that the working blade of the wall saw cars during operation have to be cooled with water. But, with such equipment, everything is done exactly in size, quickly, and without too much noise.
- Since during the cutting the integrity of the structure is violated, and the fragment that took on certain loads is removed, the openings are necessarily reinforced with metal. In non-bearing walls, the perimeter of the opening is strapped with a 40 * 40 mm steel corner and connecting plates.
- In multilayer walls - for example, frame houses, the reinforcement is carried out by a square pipe, embedded inside the wall and fixed to the ceiling. For partitions, a channel of the right size is selected in the half-brick, mounted U-shaped on both sides, and attached to the ceiling and floor.
- In general, the amplification options can be different, and they are determined by the project, without which similar work is not carried out (see. How to strengthen the doorway). The reinforcement of the openings is also carried out in those cases, at a time when the strength of the structural material of the wall is insufficient to withstand, for example, a steel door.
Whatever the finish of such openings, their slopes must be plastered with cement plaster. In order to hide the metalwork, you have to impose a thick layer of mortar, and this is done without fail on a coarse-mesh steel mesh mounted on the surfaces of the opening.
At the end of how the plaster is completely dry, it is possible to venerate the opening with polyurethane stucco molding - and no one will guess that there are metal structures under it.